Water and the Heart of Bologna

by Maria Chiara Mazzi

The Aposa is the only natural water course that runs through the city.


Not only towers: Bologna – thanks to the quantity, the length, the size and the beauty of those existing structures in its secret bowels, which are aptly defined as “underground urban architecture” – can legitimately be named of the most important and fascinating underground city in the world.
We are not referring so much and only to the complex and intricate network of canals, channels, drains, conduits, culverts, gates and other structures built over the centuries for the water supply of the city, as to the historical and archaeological heritage consisting of artifacts made along the banks of the Aposa, the only natural water course which runs through the city since its beginning, from it source on the hill of Roncrio and downstream into the Moline canal and into the mouth of Navile in Via Bovi Campeggi, where once was the ancient port Maccagnano.
This long journey - once known only in the stretches where it ran in the open sky - can today be visited and in part accessible, even its underground path, in the sections located between the two accesses of Piazza Minghetti and Piazza San Martino. Every year tens of thousands of Italian and foreign visitors take advantage of guided tours for an adventure in the “underground history" of the city. It is a story in which the Aposa was a witness to many and sometimes gory events and happenings, the theater of escapes, clandestine introductions, trades of smuggled goods, and even more or less successful thefts.
Many historians and scholars, over time, have written richly documented re-enactments and reconstructions of events and historical and urban realities. But no one, so far, had provided the opportunity to learn about the Aposa visually step by step as it is done today, along its entire course, including the stretches forbidden to "non-experts".
Now they are providing a "millimeter", an evocative instrument of knowledge of the course of the torrent, two members of the praiseworthy Association "Friends of the waterways and groundwater bodies of Bologna": Massimo Brunelli, with his photos, and Angelo Zanotti with the very accurate essay in a book aptly titled Il torrente sconosciuto svelato (The unknown creek revealed), which allows one to add valuable information to the study of the complex history of the water system in Bologna.


The course of the Aposa, rich in history, legends and fascination, used 2,200 years ago by the Romans as a city landmark and as a defensive moat of the same, was also used during the Second World War, when the tunnels and underground environments along its course were used to accommodate refuges for civilians and soldiers, shelters, military commands, often made out from the ancient structures.
Massimo Brunelli and Francisco Giordano have dedicated themselves with passion and professionalism to identify and describe with precision these shelters, especially those intended for underground air-raid shelters, near the hill of San Michele in Bosco, for the use of the Rizzoli Orthopaedic Institute and the other for the adjacent military area.
In both refuges (visits by appointment), it is among other things possible to see the foundations on which rested the slab of wood above the flowing water used as a floor for the refugees.
Not along the Aposa, but still adapting an underground waterway in the city is the Cavaticcio canal today in the Marconi area – where had been set up the tragic shelter, able to accommodate 2,800 people, which was hit on September 25, 1943, during the first foray on Bologna and thus turned out to be a terrible trap where hundreds of people died: a plaque on Via Leopardi commemorates that tragic day.
As the flowing water of the stream, the centuries go by, and history is made: the Aposa (according to legend, the name was given to the river by the Etruscan king Fero, in memory of his beloved, of Gallic origin, who crossed the waters to reach him and drowned) thus appears to be "inextricably linked" to the city - as stated Antonio de Capoa, lawyer and president of the "Friends of the waterways and groundwater bodies of Bologna" - in a positive and protective sense as though it were a tutelary deity.

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